Living in Bath between 2006 and 2011, outside of the antique rivalry of two frankly middling buns, food only played a supporting role to the tourism economy. Chain restaurants took the Wetherspoons approach, attempting to obscure their hegemony by cloaking it within the character of the city’s period architecture, as if it might elevate what’s inside by osmosis. However, a decade later, one name would crop up repeatedly, becoming an attraction in its own right. This is Landrace.
