Then walk through to 1890, Gordon Ramsay’s Michelin-starred restaurant. I remember supposing it would quickly win a star at the preview dinner. Hey ho, it has, and there’s a four-course menu at £100 per head, featuring such marvels as a generous Orkney scallop with courgettes and lemon verbena and Suffolk lamb cooked a la francaise. All this, might I remind you, in the splendid opulence of one of London’s grand old dames. If you can’t take a date, take Loren.
