It’s not immediately obvious where the steakhouse is
The weedy canals and soaring skyscrapers of Canary Wharf are a uniquely harmonious part of London; an area where ancient swampland and 21st century engineering meld into a perfect union – allowing visitors to enjoy the beauty of nature with all the excitement of the high life.
It was while sauntering through one of my favourite districts of London that I came across this charming restaurant. Blacklock Canary Wharf is said to serve one of the best Sunday roasts in the capital, although this vaunted dish is strictly reserved for Sundays when its fire-pits “have a makeover”.
The rest of the time, Blacklock Canary Wharf earns its reputation as one of the finest steakhouses in London. Walking along the North Colonnade, I recognised its banner, perched under a heavy concrete DLR bridge. The front of the restaurant faces the North Dock of India Quay, as close to an oceanic view as you will find in London.
It’s worth pointing out that booking is recommended, as this place gets busy. I sit down like a man of action, ready to do business with the menu. And what a menu it is. Options at Blacklock aren’t extensive, but there’s just enough choice to cater for different tastes; with starters of Mushrooms on Toast (£8), Pig’s Head on Toast (£9), Smoked Beef Ribs (£10) and Crayfish Cocktail (£11); alongside popular lunchtime options of Blacklock Burger (£14), Steak Sarnie (£15) and Steak and Stout Pie (£14).
But its the selection of fine steaks that sets Blacklock apart. Its courses of mains consist of Denver Steak (£16) made up of marbled, flavoursome cuts from the under blade; Bavette Steak (£18) long, flat cuts from the abdomen; Rump Cap (£20) traditional rump steak; Sirloin Steak (£21); Blacklock Fillet (£24) the restaurant’s signature fillet steak; and Rib-Eye (£28).
These may seem reasonable enough prices for London but there’s a catch, the steaks come alone. Any side dishes, such as sweet potatoes, kale vegetables, beef dripping chips or broccoli and walnut salad will set you back £5 for each item, while gravy is £3 and green or bearnaise sauce £2. Only in London!
I opt for the Crayfish Cocktail, before a main of Blacklock Fillet Steak served with ’10 hour ash-roasted sweet potato’, otherwise known as sweet potato. I’m a sucker for all things seventies, and prawn cocktail is one of my favourite dishes.
The meaty white crayfish gives an elevated taste to the dish, gone are the crispy hard ends of prawn, while the sauce typically made up of mayonnaise, tomato ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, and lemon juice has a uniquely spicy kick. I enjoy all of it, including the base avocado salad.
Blacklock Fillet Steak arrives as a solitary brown lump on a white plate. I can’t help but find something a little askew with the presentation… perhaps a little drizzle of some colourful sauce here or there might dispel the worrying allusion. But it’s exquisitely cooked. Ravishingly browned off on the outside and gorgeously tender, red and juicy inside. I heartily enjoy slicing away at it with my steak knife until there’s nothing of it left.
So filling is the steak that I wouldn’t recommend more than two side dishes. As it happens, my one choice of sweet potato is more than adequate. Three logs of orange are big and bountiful, although the burnt, black skins – a product of the ten-hour ash cooking method – really don’t add anything special.
The restaurant itself is cosy. It reminds me a lot of Frankie & Benny’s. It has the feel of a New York Italian diner – dark, with wooden brown tables and smart leather chairs, offset by the allure of sunshine and docklands water from outside giving it an almost coastal feel that is unusual for London. Guests are served with complimentary bottles of water upon arrival, and I’m pleased with their in-house Blacklock Lager, none too heavy at 4% ABV.
I pay my £50 bill and notice how quickly the restaurant has filled up since I arrived. This is clearly a popular dinner choice in Canary Wharf, with suited city workers and groups of friends exchanging lively banter over equally hardy, robust food. Not a romantic destination in my opinion, but certainly full of the pumping energy of London.
Blacklock Canary Wharf is located at 5 Frobisher Passage. For bookings, see here.
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