There is a ‘secret’ code you need to know to sound like a real East Ender at London’s most famous pie shop
Jellied eels, pie and mash? That is a staple of the East End. It is a meal so ingrained in the East End that, even as the area has changed, it refuses to die out. The staple pie and mash with liquor brings a warm feeling. The meal was something the working class in the East End could afford, and that tradition has remained ever-present to this day. G Kelly in Bow might be one of London’s most famous as well as one of its oldest.
Located on Roman Road, G Kelly was founded in 1939 by George Kelly. Since then, it has become a favourite for locals, West Ham fans and the newer generation of people moving into the area. Whereas pie and mash shops are reportedly on the decline, G Kelly shows that there is still life in age-old traditions.
Samantha King works at G Kelly and has seen the area change over the years, but thinks the shop will remain a key part of Bow. She told MyLondon: “I get to know everyone in the community [working here]. They’ll see me out on the street and say hello. Even with the changes to the area, you’ve just got to accept it.
“We have a lot more young people coming in nowadays. You still get your older lot and regulars who bring their grandkids in. Then you’ve got middle-class people who have never been here, who come back because they liked it so much. I think it shows that for us, it’s not a dying trade. We know that we won’t struggle to get customers because people still keep coming in. We are always popping up on TikTok.
“Even people from other cultures who don’t necessarily eat it, but they always stop and ask questions about it. They will come in and pick up some desserts.”
As you walk into the shop, the traditional feel pops out. The brickwork, the plain seating, and the open-plan view of the kitchen in the back make you feel as if you are in a unique spot. The warm service from Samantha and the rest of the team is clear to see as people walk in to order.
To sound like a ‘proper’ local, you simply say ‘Can I have a 2 & 2’, which translates to two pies and two scoops of mash covered in liquor. One man who is adept at ordering that exact meal is 67-year-old Tom, who has been coming to G Kelly since he was six. Even as he got older and moved out of the area, whenever he is back in London, he knows he has to visit for his favourite meal.
He told MyLondon: “I used to come here when I was six with my mum. Whenever I’m in London, I always have to come here. As I got older, in the mid 70s, I would come here, have dinner, then go to football.”
It’s even more special for Tony, as one of the pictures on G Kelly’s wall features his late mother in the shop.
G. Kelly is a short 20-minute walk to West Ham’s London Stadium, making it a popular spot for football fans. The shop has long been associated with West Ham, who love to sample traditional cuisine that is a part of their team’s history.
On busy days, queues can be found forming outside the doors of the shop. When MyLondon spoke to residents about Bow being named one of the best places to live, a lot of them mentioned how the ‘pie and mash shop is one of the best things about the area’.
Reviewers of G Kelly all sing its praises. One person on Google wrote: “Went too[sic] visit Kelly’s for pie & mash all the way from Portsmouth and wasn’t disappointed. The staff were fantastic as well as the food
I had one pie mash and Liquor. The wife went for the crumble and ice cream and had one apple liked it so much so had the cherry one as well . Well worth the visit we will be back.”
Another person wrote: “We were more than ready for something hearty — so my Londoner boyfriend took me to G Kelly for proper pie and mash. As a Yorkshire lass, I was on the hunt for gravy (and was very relieved to find they had it — and it was delicious!). He, of course, went for the traditional liquor, and we both came away happy with our choices.
“The shop was absolutely buzzing with people, but the service was super speedy and friendly. Prices are excellent, portions generous, and it’s exactly the kind of comforting meal you crave after a long walk.”
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