The ancient East Sussex parish makes for a relaxing day out filled with history, picturesque views and top-notch food
Minutes from the seaside and steeped in history, Rye is often dubbed the UK’s ‘most naturally beautiful town’. Well, having found myself on a cramped rail replacement bus in the blistering sunshine, it had a lot to prove.
Located just over an hour from Central London, the cobbled streets and charming half-timbered houses are enough to almost immediately melt away lingering frustration. Despite arriving on a summer-esque Saturday afternoon, the ancient parish made for a relaxed day out filled with picturesque views, local ales and top-notch food.
The first stop of the day was Cobbles Tea Room, a decades-old establishment boasting vintage crockery and a sun trap courtyard. The menu did not disappoint; ‘light lunches’ fit for three and warm scones smothered in layers of tart jam and rich clotted cream. Be sure to try the crisp local apple juice pressed from fruit grown by Sussex farmers.
Bellies full, it was time to head to Rye’s most well-known attraction – Mermaid Street. Seemingly untouched by modernity, this medieval lane, with its flower-lined, higgledy-piggledy homes, offers a window into its illustrious past.
Many of the buildings feature original beams, sloping roofs, and leaded windows that have witnessed centuries of change. The Mermaid Inn, the street’s crown jewel, dates to 1420 and is infamous for its links to the Hawkhurst Gang, a notorious group of smugglers in the 18th century.
Legend goes that it is haunted by several ghosts who stalk the adjacent hotel rooms. On my visit, it was instead cursed by the excited chatter of American tourists. Outside, you’ll find two beer gardens, offering a high chance of securing an enviable seat for a spot of day drinking.
Wander along Mermaid Street, and you’ll find houses quirkily named The House with Two Front Doors and The House Opposite, a tradition reflecting a time when literacy was less common. From there, head to the Yrpes Tower and St Mary’s Parish Church, two historic sites open to climb and explore.
We opted for the latter, paying £5 each to clamber into skinny, wooden staircases and peer into the mechanism of the oldest working church turret in Britain. Exercise for the day achieved, you’re rewarded with a 365-degree views across the town and beyond.
30 metres up, Camber Sands beach, Camber castle and and Rye Harbour can all be spotted from the square lookout. This is also an ideal place to snap a picture or two away from the crowds below.
For the moochers among us, Rye also has a thriving arts scene and lovely collection of independent and antique shops providing plenty of browsing opportunity. If you’re lucky, you may even come across a craft fair with locally-made jewellery, paintings and candles.
How to get to Rye
Rye is a great choice for anyone seeking to escape the capital as it’s only 65 minutes from St Pancras station. Southeastern trains with a single change at Ashford International depart once an hour.
Tickets start £15 each way when booked in advance via Trainline or National Rail. Alternatively, you can head to Charing Cross but this will add an hour onto the journey.
Driving from Central London takes around 90 – 150 minutes, and involves navigating the M20.
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