It may seem trivial, but clothes do matter in politics.
As previous British prime ministers, particularly Harold Wilson and Margaret Thatcher, have showed, fashion can be used as a powerful political tool.
Renowned for her signature wardrobe of high-shoulder suits, pussy-bow blouses, and her iconic handbag, Thatcher cultivated an image that sought to project a sense of authority and purpose.
In contrast, Wilson – often anchored by his ever-present pipe and Gannex coat – was famed for a pragmatic, utilitarian wardrobe that defined the “cloth-cap” socialism of the 1960s and 70s.
The dress sense of female politicians, says Rob Ford, professor of political science at the University of Manchester, comes under much more scrutiny than that of their male counterparts.
“There’s an enormous double standard with this,” Ford says. “It’s harder for a female politician because you’ve got to make choices all the time.”
At least men can always fall back on suits, he says.
Image isn’t everything though, as Conservative leader Kemi Badenoch argued last month, when she dismissed Burnham as “a pair of eyelashes and a black T-shirt”.
In a video responding to her dig, Burnham looked down at his T-shirt before saying: “It’s not black, it’s dark navy.”
In a speech made after he was confirmed as the new Labour leader this week, Burnham – wearing a suit and tie – could not resist bringing up his clothes again.
Labour, he said, had worn “too many Tory clothes” in the past.
“Let me tell you – I’m quite happy that Kemi doesn’t approve of my wardrobe choices – because I’m not keen on theirs either,” Burnham said. “From here, we do it differently.”
Ironically, Sir Keir Starmer had also embraced the dress-down spirit of his successor, with the outgoing PM sometimes seen in tracksuits, a Stone Island polo shirt, and Adidas trainers.
The difference, says Prof Rob Ford, is that Burnham’s fashion choices have cut through with the public.
“The fact people have noticed he has a distinctive manner of dress is a victory for his branding efforts,” Ford says.
Like Reform UK leader Nigel Farage, Burnham likes to be photographed swigging pints in pubs.
“The aim of his clothes is similar – to say I’m not a professional politician, I’m one of you,” Ford says.
Retaining that approachable, homespun persona while adhering to the sartorial conventions and expectations of Westminster will be a challenge for Burnham.
In an era when politics has never been more visual, he’ll need to dress to impress, whatever he decides to wear.
