‘There are already three of their shops within a mile. I don’t know what made [Gail’s] open here’
Gail’s has stirred up controversy amongst Islington locals after revealing it will open a bakery on yet another street lined with independent businesses. The chain is currently renovating the former Saltine restaurant in Highbury Barn, which shut its doors in December amid a ‘tough’ trading climate.
Teaser signage has sparked frustration from residents, including food writer Nigel Slater, who dubbed the new arrival the ‘last thing’ the area needs. One café owner told MyLondon he was ‘absolutely heartbroken’ when he heard the news.
Gokhan Karakoc has been running Pia’s for over a decade but is now struggling against increased electricity bills and business rates. The 52-year-old fears Gail’s could be the final nail in his coffin.
He said: “They are like a monster, just opening up on every corner. I mean, there are already three of their shops within the mile. I don’t know what made them open here.
“The shop may increase footfall to the street but it will definitely take away my customers as well. Me, the small businesses next door, we’re all worrying about it.”
Gokhan also worries the bakery is a sign of costly things to come. While Highbury is already heavily gentrified, the chain is often cited as an indicator that housing and commercial prices are about to skyrocket i.e. the so-called Gail’s Effect.
A concerned Gokhan believes he’d be unable to survive a rent increase upon an upcoming renewal. He added: “Gail’s have likely gone in there with a high rate of rent so when the landlord’s are resigning, they’re checking the surrounding properties.
“They’re not gonna align my rent with the cheapest one, they’re obviously going to estimate it alongside the highest. It could kill us. I don’t know how I am going to cope.”
Gail’s is no stranger to controversy, with residents of Primrose Hill and Stoke Newington kicking up a fuss about a corporate business setting up shop in their ‘village-like’ neighbourhoods. Thousands of Walthamstow-ites even signed a petition urging people to reject its branch.
More than 200 people have now signed a similar petition calling on Islington Council to protect Highbury Barn from ‘corporate gentrification’. Campaign starters say they’ve seen the area lose its ‘vibrant community’ over several decades.
Hassan, who has worked locally for 30 years, agrees with this sentiment, having seen bigger names pop up slowly. He said: “A lot of my customers are saying to me ‘How can Gail’s open up here?’ They’re not happy about it.
“I won’t use it myself I prefer to use the smaller shops that have been here for many years. Everyone is just trying to make a living.
“The rates and rents here are quite high so the businesses are already suffering. Gail’s are a much bigger company so don’t feel the same strain.”
“I’m not thrilled about it,” added Mike, who works in a coffee van near Highbury Fields, “They’re just popping up everywhere.
“I’d rather it wasn’t there but there’s not we can do. The same thing happened in Stoke Newington and everyone was annoyed about it. It’s the McDonald’s of coffee at this point.”
However, the barista isn’t particularly surprised that the chain is moving in as Highbury has long been known as a well-off area. House prices have had an average cost of £834,109 over the last year, according to Rightmove.
Mike continued: “A lot of people living here are rich and Gail’s is marketed as a posh coffee place. I don’t think it will affect us really, we have a slightly different demographic. It’s a bit of a shame though for the small businesses on the road though.”
It’s unclear when the Highbury Branch branch will open, with building work still ongoing. MyLondon has approached Gail’s for more information.
In the meantime, some café staff are trying not to dwell on how things might change. Evrim, who manages Stage Brasserie on Highbury Park, believes her customer base will stay loyal.
She said: “I’m not quite sure how it will affect us just yet. They don’t do sit down breakfast just yet so I’m hoping that makes us stand out.
“The people who are living around here all appreciate the local businesses. They say they are refusing to go there so I’m hoping we’ll be ok.”
Gail’s has been approached for comment.
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