This classy little Italian is one of the best spots to dine in Notting Hill without breaking the bank
Few London neighbourhoods have the international recognition of Notting Hill. Whether it’s the headline-grabbing pull of Notting Hill Carnival, or the neighbourhood’s pleasing pastel-coloured townhouses, or most likely, the cringey eponymous romantic comedy from 1999 starring Hugh Grant – it’s place a we’re all familiar with.
But for those of us just passing through those leafy, desirable streets, finding a top spot to dine or grab a pleasant lunch without breaking the bank can feel like quite a challenge.
Luckily, I came across the perfect little Italian for your West London rendezvous – where prized pizzas can be gorged upon for less than £20. When I read a recent review of Portobello Ristorante Pizzeria describing it as ‘one of the best Italian restaurants outside of Italy’ I just knew I had to visit.
It occupies a quaint little spot of Notting Hill, tucked away around the corner on Ladbroke Grove and just a few minutes’ walk from Notting Hill Gate tube station. I swanny down on a Friday lunchtime, and although there are a healthy number of diners, it’s not swamped and I’m led to a cosy table in its front conservatory terrace.
Portobello Ristorante Pizzeria is a traditional Italian with just enough embellishment without being fussy or over-decorated. Crisp white tablecloths and orange-tiled floors plus a few hanging wreaths and greenery make for a natural, unaffected spot to dine.
For red wine drinkers, a choice of Meczan Pinot Noir comes to £14, while Merlot Castel Firmian is an easy win at £9, with numerous other European wines to choose from.
I tend to prefer white at lunchtime, and so it is that I order the cortese Gavi di Gavi la Meirana and for a few minutes I enjoy a little transportation to wine heaven in the sunshine. It’s refreshing and fruity while dry enough to please a savoury palate like mine.
Portobello Ristorante has a decent-sized menu, along with a number of specials every day.
Starters include Mozarella alla Milanese (deep-fried breaded Mozarella served with red onion jam) at £10, Crispy Fried Courgette Strips for £10, Calamari Fritti for £16, Polpette Di Manzo (juicy beef meatballs) for £12, and Arancini Al Tarfuto Nero (three black truffle rice balls stuffed with mozarella, pecorino cheese sauce and red onion jam) for £12.
But it’s Portobello Ristorante’s mains that are pretty dazzling and for a pizza lover on a lunchbreak, hard to beat. A full-sized Margherita comes in at just £13, while a Marinara pizza is only £12. A Romana (mozarella, tomato, anchovies, oregano, olives & capers) is a mere £19, and a meaty Capricciosa (mozarella, tomato, spicy Napoli, roast ham, mushroom & olives) is £20. Nine other pizzas round off the menu.
For pasta and risotto fans, there’s a smaller offering and it’s generally more expensive, with the likes of Penne Siciliana (penne with aubergines, plums & cherry tomato sauce and ricotta cheese) coming to £21, and Rigatoni Al Ragu Napolitano (rigatoni with beef and pork ragout, in rich tomato sauce) at £24.
But Portobello has a trump card up its sleeve with its special menu, full of hearty, family favourite dishes at affordable prices. I order the special croquettes (filled with ham, cheese and garden peas) for £9. As for mains, while I’m tempted by Portobello’s regular and extensive pizza offering, a 16″ sausage and mince pizza is on the special menu for £24. It’s an offer I can’t refuse.
My croquettes arrive and they are exquisite – something between heavenly school dinners and a 1970s dinner party. The cheese sauce is thick, stringy and moreish, while opening the croquettes releases a burst of steam as I cut through hot ham and cheese. This is comfort food done brilliantly.
On to my pizza and I can honestly that my little mind is blown. For once, I may have chosen something too big for my robust appetite. This pizza is enormous – with thick crust and what feels like layers of melted cheese, chopped potato, mince and pepperoni.
For all my protests about the size of this ginormous meal, I manage an impressive feat in gobbling up about 80 per cent of it. It’s irresistibly wholesome and moreish, and an all-too generous portion size that, at the very least, makes you feel you’re having your money’s worth.
On to desserts, and there are six options ranging from Tiramisu (£8.50), Torta Caprese (dark chocolate & almond cake with vanilla ice-cream; £10) and Affogato al Caffe (two scoops of vanilla ice-cream drowned in a shot of espresso; £8.50). I choose the latter and gorge on the sweet sophistication of ice cream and espresso coffee.
I’m sold on Portobello. This is homely, comforting and moreish food in the heart of Notting Hill, and very affordable. As handy for a quick meet at lunchtime as it is for a scrumptious soiree.
Portobello Ristorante Pizzeria is located on Ladbroke Road, Notting Hill
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