“I’d have whelks,” says Emily Roux, Michel’s daughter. No beans for her either, of course, but plenty of tins. “I’d have canned butter beans, tomatoes, and carrots, green beans, peas.” Roux’s maternal grandmother, Raymonde, used to prepare her own vegetables in Avignon. “She’ll be 100 next year. She’s in a home now, but until recently, she would grow her own vegetables and can them herself for the winter months. I think we should all pickle more, too — cabbage, cucumbers, onions. I’d probably have some Spam. It’s not a favourite, but I quite like it. And then some of those pre-batch cocktails like Moth. They’re fun.”

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